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 Environment   


Harike and Aitiana, Punjab

Birding Trip Report

 


By Ranajay Gupta & Chandan Chaudhuri
 

It wasn’t a very encouraging start. The fog had enveloped us by the time we stopped at Moghul Sarai; the gloom still enveloped us when we reached New Delhi by Poorva Express after 4 pm on 4 January 2000 — more than eight hours late. Seven of us had left from Howrah on 3 January 2000 and two joined on the way at Asansol. Two more were to join us from Delhi; hence the route via Delhi instead of taking a direct train to Ludhiana. The fog had disrupted all train services. The New Delhi railway station was choked with passengers whose trains had been delayed or cancelled. We had planned to catch the Paschim Express; we did, but only the next day, and even then, the train left more than four hours late. We reached Ludhiana after 9 pm, where our host, Mr Sohan Singh was waiting. The drive to Aitiana, a village 30 km from Ludhiana, was again through fog. All the strain was compensated, however, by the hot dinner of makki ka roti and sarson ki sag (a mustard-leaf preparation with unleavened maize bread) Mrs Manjit Kaur had waiting for us, followed by a divine dessert of hot gajar halwa.

Aitiana

The next day — 6 January — was spent exploring Aitiana village, as far as the fog and cold would allow us. Even then, the experience was unforgettable. The bird life was not only rich, but incredibly bold. Mr Sohan Singh’s farmhouse is a three-storied building, with a large, brick-paved inner yard enclosed within a high wall. Low sheds for farm machinery as well as the cattle sheds, which housed a number of buffalo, surrounded the outer yard. Behind the cattle sheds was a heap of chaff, and beyond it a small enclosed field where the cattle spent the day grazing and basking in the sun on the rare occasions the fog allowed it to shine through.

The men in our group slept in a large room converted into a dormitory of string beds. The room had a window that looked out on the heap of chaff and the field beyond. And on to an incredible collection of birds that fed on the chaff-heap all day.

There were doves and rose-ringed parakeets, mynas and sparrows, babblers and munias — but soon enough we found it was a collection unlike any we usually see. Among doves, there were the ring doves that seemed to populate the region in their thousands. You could go kilometre after kilometre and the power or telephone lines running beside the road would be one continuous of stretch of roosting ring doves. There was the little brown dove. There were bank mynas, which were as common as crows here, along with common mynas and pied mynas. But it was the sparrows that had us perplexed. What, at first glance, looked like an ordinary enough flock of sparrows on the chaff-heap turned out to be a gathering of at least three species, one of which we were unable to identify with any certainty. A similar flock on the village road proved to include three species of pipit. The bare tree in the field behind the chaff-heap had its own attraction, with species like the common grey hornbill; and spotted owlet — a charming family of six which would come out from a hole in the tree to bask in the insipid sun. A little patch of marshy land under a grove of trees at the edge of the village had a few waders and kingfisher. Red-wattled lapwing almost allowed you to trip over them before they made way.

Harike

On the 7th, we went to Harike, or Hari-ke-Pattan, as it is often called — a journey of about 110 km from Aitiana via Moga (actually, the nearest major town is Moga (40km) and the nearest railhead is Amritsar (60 km)). We had our first view of the wetland from the Gurdwara on the bank of Harike Lake. The Harike wetland is formed by a barrage at the confluence of the rivers Beas and Sutlej in Ferozepur District. The main lake is fringed by marshes, Shisham woods and cultivation. Harike town itself hugs one shore. Surprisingly, we found the greatest concentration of migratory waterfowl right next to it — in their thousands. Coots comprised more than half the number. There were wigeons, shovellers, red-crested pochards, tufted ducks and cotton teal. There were black-headed, brownheaded gulls and river tern, besides an assortment of waders. However, local villagers complained of poaching by rich landowners, and we did hear shots while we were there. On land, we had the rare sight of a starling. Other birds included the spanish sparrow. The total bird count came to 66, in conditions that left much to be desired. Time was limited, and the fog did not lift before late afternoon. A properly-organised trip with sufficient time on hand, preferably with base camp at Harike itself, should prove to be a birdwatcher’s dream. An employee of the Rajasthan Canal authorities gave us valuable advice on staying at Harike. There is an inspection bungalow which can be booked by writing to The Executive Engineer, Harike Canal Division, PO Harike, Dist Ferozepur with a copy to the Sub-Divisional Officer, Ferozepur. There is also a Gurdwara at Harike which allows visitors to stay at a hall beside the river; if you are carrying tents you can also make a camp beside it. Meals are not available close at hand; you have to go to Harike town, a couple of kilometres from the site. (The authors wish to record their gratitude to Mr & Mrs Sohan Singh of Aitiana Transport and their relatives at Aitiana for making the visit possible and for making their tour an incredible experience; and to all the people at Aitiana and Harike who went out of their way to help. The checklists were prepared with the help of Mr Purnendu Dasgupta, Dr Ruma Dasgupta and Mr Arup Chakrabarty (who is blind, but a keen birder nevertheless, with an incredible capacity of identifying birds from their calls) of Prakriti Samsad, who were part of the team. The other members of the team were Dr A K Das and Mrs Kalpana Das, Mr Jaydeb Dasgupta, Mrs Mitali Gupta and Ms Chaitali Dasgupta, who all contributed in no mean measure to making this trip so fruitful.)

Checklist of Birds at Aitiana

English Name /  Scientific Name

  1. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus

  2. Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris

  3. Common Hoopoe Upupa epops

  4. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

  5. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

  6. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

  7. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri

  8. Spotted Owlet Athene brama

  9. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis

  10. Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica

  11. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

  12. Common Redshank Tringa totanus

  13. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

  14. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

  15. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii

  16. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

  17. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

  18. Shikra Accipiter badius

  19. Little Egret Egretta garzetta

  20. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

  21. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda

  22. House Crow Corvus splendens

  23. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

  24. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus

  25. Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata

  26. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata

  27. Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata

  28. Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum

  29. Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra

  30. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

  31. Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus

  32. Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus

  33. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

  34. Western Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus occipitalis

  35. Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus

  36. House Sparrow Passer domesticus

  37. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis

  38. Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia

  39. White Wagtail Motacilla alba

  40. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus

  41. Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica

Checklist of Birds at Harike

English Name  /  Scientific Name

  1. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

  2. Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger

  3. Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

  4. Darter Anhinga rufa

  5. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

  6. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

  7. Pond-Heron Ardeola grayii

  8. Large Egret Egretta alba

  9. Smaller Egret Egretta intermedia

  10. Indian Reef-Heron Egretta gularis

  11. Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

  12. Openbill Stork Anastomus oscitans

  13. Common Teal Anas crecca

  14. Gadwall Anas strepera

  15. Wigeon Anas penelope

  16. Shoveller Anas clypeata

  17. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

  18. Common Pochard Aythya ferina

  19. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

  20. Cotton Teal Nettapus coromandelianus

  21. Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus

  22. Indian Whitebacked Vulture Gyps bengalensis

  23. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

  24. Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

  25. Purple Moorhen Porphyrio porphyrio

  26. Coot Fulica atra

  27. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

  28. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

  29. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

  30. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

  31. Redshank Tringa totanus

  32. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

  33. Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos

  34. Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus

  35. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

  36. Indian River Tern Sterna aurantia

  37. Indian Ring Dove Streptopelia decaocto

  38. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri

  39. Coucal Centropus sinensis

  40. Spotted Owlet Athene brama

  41. Lesser Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

  42. Whitebreasted Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

  43. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

  44. Hoopoe Upupa epops

  45. Lesser Goldenbacked Woodpecker Dinopium benghalense

  46. Black Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis

  47. Starling Sturnus vulgaris

  48. Pied Myna Sturnus contra

  49. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

  50. Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus

  51. House Crow Corvus splendens

  52. Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

  53. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

  54. Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei

  55. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus

  56. Rufous-tailed Flycatcher Muscicapa ruficauda

  57. Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva

  58. Streaked Fantail Warbler Cisticola juncidis

  59. Yellowbellied Wren-warbler Prinia flaviventris

  60. Stone Chat Saxicola torquata

  61. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

  62. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

  63. White Wagtail Motacilla alba

  64. Large Pied Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis

  65. House Sparrow Passer domesticus

  66. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis

 

 

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